Foam

Head out now. The primary south-west swell is 16 seconds apart, which means each wave has travelled far across open ocean and arrives with real shape and push, and that long period is what builds proper walls at this beach even when the faces look soft. You're looking at head to overhead, with 88 per cent of the energy coming from true groundswell rather than local chop, and the cross-shore east wind this morning is light enough that it is not working against the faces. The tide is barely moving, which is the sweet spot here.

By mid-afternoon the wind swings south-east and onshore, and strengthens to 20 kph, so the quality drops and the faces turn choppy. This is essentially done by then.

Tomorrow peaks at the same 5 out of 5 rating and looks to run head to overhead, possibly pushing past 4 metres. The morning is your window before the wind picks up again. Size this high asks for confident, experienced surfers who know how to read overhead waves and move through them; the sand floor keeps you from hitting anything underfoot, but the power is real and the break's usual gentleness does not apply when it swells this far.