Foam

Right now you're looking at chest to overhead walls peeling off a quiet bay with the 15-second groundswell wrapping in cleanly from the south-west, and that long period is what keeps the faces lined up and powerful. The 11-kilometre-per-hour east wind is holding cross-shore this morning, but today's conditions call for confident, experienced surfers; the size and real energy in the water ask for solid paddling and board control. Get in the water before 11am, when the wind swings further onshore and begins to soften the walls.

By mid-afternoon the wind strengthens to 22 kilometres per hour from the south-east, pushing into the head to overhead range and turning the faces choppy. That's the effective end of today's window.

Tomorrow peaks shoulder to overhead with the same groundswell character, and looks best in the morning before the onshore wind pattern returns. The forecast is firm on size and timing, though the ocean remains less predictable than the model suggests; if it reads true you've got a solid repeat of today, just a touch bigger and with a fresher start.