Foam

Right now the swell is coming from the right direction and wrapping in well, but the cross-shore wind from the WNW is working against the shape, and you're looking at overhead waves that demand a confident late take-off on a hollow, fast reef. This is a wave for experienced surfers only; the size and power here are real. The 14-second period means the face has some shape to it, but the wind texture and the falling tide are holding conditions at fair rather than good.

By mid-afternoon the wind will have swung slightly west and the swell will still be overhead, but essentially the same cross-shore chop will persist and conditions will not improve. Wait for 5pm as called.

Tomorrow peaks at good and looks genuinely worth the plan. Surf probably runs shoulder to overhead, the morning window should offer the cleanest faces before the wind picks up, and the longer period swell filling in overnight will have more push and shape than today carries. The forecast sits with reasonable conviction, though the ocean always reserves the right to surprise.