Foam

The swell angle is wrapping in perfectly from the south-west, and a long 16-second period is holding the faces clean and lined up across the lagoon. You're looking at stomach to head-high waves in genuinely light winds from the east-south-east, which means this window runs best before noon when the sea state is at its most organised. This is a confident surfer's wave today, not a beginner one, despite the soft sand bottom and shallow water: the size carries real power and the period is enough to demand respect.

By mid-afternoon the wind swings south-east and fills to 22 kilometres per hour, pushing the waves up towards shoulder to overhead, but the cross-shore angle and the afternoon chop will start to roughen what is clean right now.

Tomorrow the swell fills further to chest to overhead with a peak rating of 5, best tackled in the morning before the day develops. The forecast sits on the edge of genuine uncertainty at that size, so treat the model as direction rather than precision; what matters is that tomorrow looks firmer and bigger than today, suiting only experienced surfers who read the water well.