Foam

Right now the swell angle is wrapping in well and groundswell dominates the mix, which means the long right should be holding shape despite the modest size, you're looking at thigh to stomach waves with a 9-second period, the kind of spacing that lets the reef peel cleanly. North wind is cross-shore and light enough that it won't trash the faces here, sheltered as this point is, though the forecast confidence line suggests conditions may feel a touch windier at the water than the model says. Worth a dawn patrol if you know the rock entry and exit; this break needs experienced feet.

By mid-afternoon the wind swings to cross-shore from the NNW and picks up to around 19 kph, which will start to rough up the faces and chop the lines. The swell fades slightly and the tide will have turned, so the window really closes between now and 1 pm.

Tomorrow morning looks genuinely good, with a peak rating of 5/5 and waist to stomach waves holding through the early hours before the swell tapers. It's a marked step up from today and worth the trip if you can make the dawn call, though forecasts this far out can surprise you and the actual size on the water may well differ from what the model predicts.