Foam

Get out now. Clean offshore from the south-east is holding the faces up and keeping the reef peeling fast, and the swell angle wraps into this headland perfectly. You're looking at waist to chest, all groundswell and zero wind chop, which means shape and speed over the shallow reef where the real barrels live.

This afternoon the wind swings cross-shore from the west-southwest and the swell fades to thigh to stomach by three o'clock, so the morning is the window. Tide rising through the day won't help either.

Tomorrow peaks at the same rating but smaller, probably thigh to stomach at best through the morning. The offshore look is less certain and the swell is thinner, so today's dawn patrol was the better call; tomorrow is still worth a check, but don't expect the same roll.