Foam

Get out now. The swell angle is wrapping in perfectly to peel off that long right point, and the offshore wind this morning has shaped clean, slow walls that can run a couple of hundred metres. Waist to chest high on pure groundswell with barely a ripple of texture means this is the day's A-ticket window, and the tide is cooperating at mid-to-high where Banana Point performs best.

By mid-afternoon the wind swings onshore from the west and the swell fades to thigh-to-stomach size, so the quality drops off steadily from mid-morning onward. Today's done by evening.

Tomorrow looks similar in rating but smaller still, probably thigh-to-stomach across the day with the best shape in the morning before wind and tide turn against it. The forecast is firmer than most, though the Atlantic always reserves the right to surprise.