Foam

Right now the swell is still too small and the tide is working against you. The 9-second period from the NNW is lining up well for the reef, but at thigh to stomach height the wave energy is thin, and the rising tide will only blunt what shape exists, the trench that feeds power into the take-off needs lower water to work properly. Cross-shore wind from the north isn't doing you favours either, so unless you're content to watch the swell fill in, this window is better spent elsewhere.

By mid-afternoon the wind will pick up and swing further north, staying cross-shore and getting rowdier. The swell won't add enough size to compensate, so the session deteriorates rather than improves as the day runs on.

Tomorrow morning looks properly worth it. The swell looks to hold at waist to chest height with a much longer period, and the timing should catch low to mid-tide when the reef will show its teeth. Wind confidence is lower for tomorrow, so there is some uncertainty in the forecast, but if the north-east offshore fills in as hoped the faces will stand up hollow and fast. That is the call to mark your calendar around.